We had such an aggressive day yesterday that we ended up with a relatively relaxed agenda today. After I made some marginally successful breakfast at our apartment (eggs with red peppers and ajvar… I bought the ajvar at the grocery store and made a rookie mistake of adding it without tasting… it was SO salty that the meal was basically inedible??), we went to the Terror House, a museum about facism and communism in Hungary, and one that had been HIGHLY recommended to me. It did not disappoint – my boyfriend and I both agreed that it had one of the, if not the, best exhibit designs of any museum we’ve been to. It was pretty intense and sobering, but it was extremely well executed and very interesting. We grabbed pizza on the street and took the train and bus out to Memento Park, which was really interesting but also a lot smaller than I’d imagined. We’re starting to really dig into the communist stuff, which is obviously a lot of what interested me coming into this trip. Memento Park ended up taking a lot less time than I’d budgeted, and they had free wi-fi?! So we took advantage of both of these things to figure out how to get to the Ludwig Museum (contemporary art museum). We hadn’t expected to have time for it, and I’m SO glad we did. It was right on the water, and the space was so pleasant and lovely. We sat on their outdoor patio for a bit, sharing a pizza and drinking wine, listening to a free concert. Then we saw a really beautiful Judit Reigl show and had to run through a show from their permanent collection before it closed (skipping the Jasper Johns and Andy Warhols in favor of the Hungarian artists, which is why we really went). We got back to our apartment just in time for a huge rainstorm and waited it out by reading, writing, and drinking wine. We then returned to Menza for dinner (I didn’t realize how much I’d been missing salads, but I got the same one again??). Hungary has been great but I’m eager to explore a bit more of Slovakia tomorrow and go to Poland!